Yahoo Insulation Rolls

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It works like resistance in a circuit. The insulation adds Resistance to the movement of heat, slowing the rate of heat transfer.

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Do not squash in thick insulation, this is a waste of money. Fluffy insulation works because it traps in the air and this helps with the insulation effect. As you will board out the loft I suggest that you use polystyrene beads as these will settle in around beams, protrusions etc. And you can level out the beads just before you put down the board.

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Rolled insulation between the joists would be best. You could sheetrock directly over the lathe if you clean up all the protrusions and only screw it into the joists, not the lathe, (with longer screws). However, since you’ve already removed the plaster it’s really not much more effort to strip off the lathe. Without it, you’d have a cleaner, easier installation, less chance of uneven spots, and a bit more headroom.

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You can use UNFACED R-19 batts to give you R-30, or you can blow loose-fill insulation into the attic. Either will be effective, although the batts won’t settle over time like the loose fill. Hope this helps.

EDIT: Lay the R-11 batts with the facing down, then lay the unfaced R-19 batts over the top, perpendicular to the first layer, to give you R-30. Good luck.

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Yes, you can. Don’t need to secure it. If there’s nothing there now, you should first put down whatever size you need to fill the joists to the top. Then put down unfaced R-30 or 38 perpendicular to the joists, to fully cover everything. Resulting in an attic of insulation where you can’t see the joists any more. And yes, you can have blown-in insulation put in the corners or other odd spaces where you regular fiberglass can’t really reach, but I don’t like it just in case I need to open up the ceiling, I’ll get a face full of insulation and a mess to clean up. Also, I’ve read on sites where they recommend R-49 for an attic, but real-world truth is that it’s just too much. If you get to R-40, you’ll be fine.

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The pink plastic was supposed to stay on. It was there to keep fiberglass fibers from becoming airborne. It minimizes it, anyway. I haven’t seen this around for a while. Something didn’t seem quite right about that. BUT! More importantly. Don’t insulate the rafter spaces up against the sheathing. Never. Never. Never. The attic needs to breathe from soffit vents to attic vents. Insulating the rafters against the sheathing will begin the rotting process. Make sure you leave a space as you approach the exterior wall to rafter joint. You should be able to see into the soffit. Don’t let the insulation come into contact with the sheathing at any point. Don’t insulate the eaves either. Condensation on the underside of your sheathing will not be able to dry quickly and easily. The only time rafters are insulated is on a cathedral ceiling and two inches or so of open space is left between the sheathing and the top of the insulation allowing free flow of air from soffit to ridge. I know this wasn’t your question but it was pointed out as acceptable by another answerer and he is dead wrong, (no offense man, but you are).

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When you add it you go the other way Go up to but do not cover the baffle. You can put the styrofoam sheets above the baffle. Start at the outer edges and work toward the center. If spaces between the joists are already filled with insulation, lay the new insulation perpendicular (crosswise) to the joists. If the joist cavities aren’t completely filled, fill them first, then run a layer over the top, crosswise. Be careful to leave at least three inches between the insulation and heat producing devices such as recessed lighting, metal chimneys, gas water heater flues, etc. And don’t forget to cover the “cover” or door that you used to get up into the attic. Also, don’t block the air vents at the outer edges. You need to keep a proper flow of air for ventilation.

Http://realestatenews-roxy.blogspot.com/2008/11/how-to-knock-4000-off-your-utility-bill.html

http://www.cdc.gov/nceh/publications/books/housing/Graphics/chapter_07/Figure7.04.jpg

Ice Dams occur at the edge of a roof, because the attic is not properly insulated and vented. The attic air temperature should be as close to the outside ambient air temperature as possible to prevent ice dams. If it is above freezing in the attic, while the outside air temperature is below freezing, melting of snow on the roof will occur.

****From the pictures…the vapor barier goes under the insulation in the attic you need to get that off also your laying it the wrong way and it side to side needs to be closer to the edges unless you see a visable vent. The attic vents need to be opened to keep it cold there and stop that damning. Also cages or cut backs for electrical.

Http://www.doityourself.com/stry/atticinsulationdojob

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I’m glad you grabbed the gloves, eye protection and mask, even if you were a little late!

Most of the time inhaling a little bit of the fiber glass from insulation will result in an mechanical irritation of the lungs. It usually subsides on it’s own shortly.

However, if you have any difficulty breathing or unusual symptoms such as coughing up blood, you should seek medical attention immediately. I’d also see a doctor if you still don’t feel right in a day or two, or if there’s any chance that old insulation had asbestos in it.

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Buy an insulation stripper tool. If you use anything else you will easily nick the wire,if that happens the wire will break when you bend it. A good stripper will do many different diameter sizes of wire.