<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/"
	>

<channel>
	<title>Price Insulation, House, Slab, Garage, Loft, Wall, Soundproofing</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk</link>
	<description>How to Save Energy and Money in One Click</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2012 19:16:40 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<language>en</language>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.4</generator>
		<item>
		<title>Yahoo  Ectotherm Vs Endotherm</title>
		<link>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-ectotherm-vs-endotherm</link>
		<comments>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-ectotherm-vs-endotherm#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jan 2012 19:16:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Price Insulation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-ectotherm-vs-endotherm</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Daniel asks… What are the advantages of being an ectotherm vs. a endotherm? Any ideas?? What are the advantages of being an ectotherm vs. a endotherm? Any ideas?? admin answers: Cold-blooded organisms (ectotherms) maintain their body temperatures in ways different from mammals and birds. The term is now outdated in scientific contexts. Cold-blooded creatures were,...</p><p><strong><a href="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-ectotherm-vs-endotherm">Read the rest of this entry</a></strong></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Daniel.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Daniel asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>What are the advantages of being an ectotherm vs. a endotherm? Any ideas??</h2>
<p>What are the advantages of being an <strong>ectotherm</strong> <strong>vs</strong>. a <strong>endotherm</strong>? Any ideas??</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Cold-blooded organisms (ectotherms) maintain their body temperatures in ways different from mammals and birds. The term is now outdated in scientific contexts. Cold-blooded creatures were, initially, presumed to be incapable of maintaining their body temperatures at all. They were presumed to be &#8220;slaves&#8221; to their environments. Whatever the environmental temperature was, so too was their body temperature. Cold-blooded animals are now called ectotherms, a term which signifies that their heat (therm) comes from outside (ecto) of them; the term cold-blooded is misleading.</p>
<p>Endotherms-  So-called warm-blooded animals; that is, those that maintain a constant body temperature independent of the environment. The endotherms include the birds and mammals. If heat loss exceeds heat generation, metabolism increases to make up the loss or the animal shivers to raise its body temperature. If heat generation exceeds the heat loss, mechanisms such as panting or perspiring increase heat loss. Unlike ectotherms, endotherms can be active and survive at quite low external temperatures, but because they must produce heat continuously, they require high quantities of &#8220;fuel&#8221; (i.e., food).</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Marie.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Marie asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>endotherm vs ectotherm?</h2>
<p>why would a <strong>endotherm</strong> be more active during the night and a <strong>ectotherm</strong> be more active during the day?</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">An endotherm produces and maintains its own body temperature, and can adapt to changes in the environment. Ectoderms can only be active during the day since their body temperature would drop in the nigh time because it gets colder, and they cant maintain their own body temperature.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</p>

<!-- start wp-tags-to-technorati 1.01 -->

<!-- end wp-tags-to-technorati -->
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-ectotherm-vs-endotherm/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Yahoo  Garage Insulation Materials</title>
		<link>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-garage-insulation-materials</link>
		<comments>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-garage-insulation-materials#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Jan 2012 20:22:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Price Insulation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-garage-insulation-materials</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Wayne asks… what&#8217;s the best material for replacing insulation around a furnace? We are painting our garage. Our house is 25 years old, and the insulation around the furnace (I think) was either asbestos or fiberglass. What is the best insulation material today? We didn&#8217;t have any trouble taking off the old stuff, but we...</p><p><strong><a href="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-garage-insulation-materials">Read the rest of this entry</a></strong></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Wayne.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Wayne asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>what&#8217;s the best material for replacing insulation around a furnace?</h2>
<p>We are painting our <strong>garage</strong>.  Our house is 25 years old, and the <strong>insulation</strong> around the furnace (I think) was either asbestos or fiberglass.  What is the best <strong>insulation</strong> material today?  We didn&#8217;t have any trouble taking off the old stuff, but we don&#8217;t know what the best material to get is today.  Our furnace is old, but it still works just fine.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Talk to someone who repairs or installs furnaces.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Mark.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Mark asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>Convert garage into bedroom.?</h2>
<p>Basically i want to convert a 2 car <strong>garage</strong> into an extra bedroom as cheaply as possible.  Also, since it will be a temporary (about 2-3 year) room, it will eventually be converted back into a <strong>garage</strong>. It has 2 automatic openers which i plan on keeping in place, removing the hardware that extends into the room itself and drywalling off that end of a <strong>garage</strong> about 1ft. away from the doors.  Also because of a 6-7 inch drop off between the concrete floor itself and the house (it is attached),  I want to build a wooden deck that can be covered by <strong>insulation</strong> and carpet.  No need for any plumbing or electrical work, it already has one window which i plan on putting in a window AC unit and using a space heater during the winter. Being in Louisiana our winter is maybe a month anyway.  So in the end, the only expenses will come from the drywalling, building of the deck and carpeting.  I haven&#8217;t measured, but its a typical 2 car <strong>garage</strong>, i would assume around the 22X22 ft dimensions, give or take 2 feet on each measurement.  Me and my dad would be doing it, so costs would be strictly for <strong>materials</strong>.  The <strong>garage</strong> does have a slope (another reason for the deck) that i would guess to be about 3 inches over the 22 feet, however it starts gradual and gets sharper the further away from the house you get.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Build the deck out of 2&#215;4&#8242;s laid in edge 24&#8243; on center over 15 lb. Felt laid on the concrete. Shim the low sides until level. Staple your insulation over the top(paper towards the room) and then apply 1/2&#8243; plywood over the 2&#215;4&#8242;s screwing in at least every 12&#8243;. Build your wall on the end of this decking and screw the bottom plate into the deck and the top plate into the ceiling. Apply 15lb felt to the outside of the wall and insulate the wall 24&#8243; on center with the paper towards the inside. Add drywall and paint. Apply your carpet padding and carpet and add baseboard molding.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Joseph.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Joseph asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>How much to install new windows?</h2>
<p>I would like to add two new windows to my <strong>garage</strong>, to bring in light.  There are no windows today, so this would involve cutting through the vinyl siding on the outside.  The inside of the <strong>garage</strong> is currently wood stud framing and fiberglass <strong>insulation</strong> (no drywall).   The windows wouldn&#8217;t have to open, they would be plain picture windows.  How much would this cost, including <strong>materials</strong> and labor?<br />
Also, who should I approach to have this done?  A replacement window company, exterior company, or general contractor?</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Movieguy I would guess $400.00 each depending on the size of window you want and area you live in. This will include windows and installing.  This is a small job.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Alana.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Alana asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>Help Building A Cat House?</h2>
<p>i have an outdoor cat living with me. (shes more of a stray cat) im not able to let her inside or in the <strong>garage</strong> but she needs some sort of shelter this winter. i want to build her a cat house for the winter. and it needs to be somewhat easy to build.(it gets cold and very snowy where i live). Im not building anything too big, maybe 2&#8243; x 3.5&#8243; x 2&#8243;. i need to build her a cat house to keep her warm this winter. I would love to be able to make it out of a transparent material like plexiglass, so that i could see in, and she could see out. The only problem is that im not sure if that will keep her warm enough. Would i need <strong>insulation</strong>? Then i couldnt see in though. Is there a form of transparent <strong>insulation</strong>? If its not possible to make her house see through while warm, should i still use plexiglass with <strong>insulation</strong> or should i use another material along with the <strong>insulation</strong>. any tips would be helpful.</p>
<p>Thanks<br />
Some one answering made me realize i  had written &#8221; instead of &#8216;. Sorry, just had one of those moments</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Cats can survive outside.  But they will do anything they can to stay warm just like you.  I remember as a kid the strays would like to jump up on car engines when you parked.  Problem was when someone was just stopping in and left right away. Kitties and moving parts don&#8217;t mix well.  My best advice is anything with 4 walls to block the wind and some padding would help. I would run an extension cord and a heating pad out there to keep them away from cars.</p>
<p>Oh and the 2 dashes &#8221; indicates inches. 1 dash &#8216; is for feet.  Your house wouldn&#8217;t hold a mouse LOL.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</p>

<!-- start wp-tags-to-technorati 1.01 -->

<!-- end wp-tags-to-technorati -->
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-garage-insulation-materials/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Yahoo  0h2p0</title>
		<link>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-0h2p0</link>
		<comments>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-0h2p0#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Nov 2011 15:19:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Price Insulation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-0h2p0</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Wayne asks… How do you know what fingers to use when reading guitar tab? And also what do you do when you get this on guitar tab (0h2p0) and (2) instead of 2 Thanks admin answers: Depending on which string in the tab the 0h2p0 is on, it means that you pluck the string by...</p><p><strong><a href="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-0h2p0">Read the rest of this entry</a></strong></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Wayne.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Wayne asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>How do you know what fingers to use when reading guitar tab?</h2>
<p>And also what do you do when you get this on guitar tab<br />
(<strong>0h2p0</strong>)<br />
and<br />
(2) instead of 2</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Depending on which string in the tab the 0h2p0 is on, it means that you pluck the string by itself then &#8220;h&#8221;ammer down on the &#8220;2&#8243;nd fret and then &#8220;p&#8221;ull off back to an open string and pluck it.</p>
<p>The 2 with parenthesis I believe is harmonic, meaning you rest your finger lightly on the second fret and pluck the string. If you do it right it will make a high pitched ring. I could be wrong about the harmonic part though</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Jemima.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Jemima asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>What does (0h2p0) mean? (guitar)?</h2>
<p>I know the h stands for hammer and the p is pull off. But how do you do those with 0?<br />
So do I do open string, 2, then open string again?</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">I do believe that 0 stands for open string</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Rachel.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Rachel asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>How do you play this tab?</h2>
<p>riff<br />
 |  | &#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8211; |<br />
 |  | &#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8211; |<br />
 |  | &#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8211; |<br />
 |  | &#8212;<strong>0h2p0</strong>&#8212;&#8211;0&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212; |<br />
 |  | &#8212;&#8212;&#8212;3&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;- |<br />
 |  | &#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8211; | </p>
<p>Could you tell me how you play it? Like: Finger on third fret second string, type of deal.<br />
Its the song The Cave, by Mumford and Sons. Thanks!</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">You play the D string (3rd) then hammer on the second fret, and while pulling off play the third thret of the A string (2nd string). Then you just play the D string again.</p>
<p>The h stands for hammer on. The p stands for pull off.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Helena.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Helena asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>How Do you read guitar tabs??</h2>
<p>Well i&#8217;ve had my guitar for about 6 months now. And i want to learn how to read guitar tabs. I was trying to learn the intro to More Than Words by Frankie J, and when i read it it said 2h3p2 and <strong>0h2p0</strong>. What do those mean?? I would really appreciate it if someone would help me out.</p>
<p>Please &amp; Thank You! [;</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">I&#8217;m pretty sure the h stands for hammer off&#8230; So 2h3 would mean to hammer off third fret&#8230; And the p stands for pluck, so its telling you to pluck the string instead of strum&#8230; But it may also stand for palm mute, it depends on the publisher&#8230; There should be a key telling you what they mean</p>
<p>i&#8217;m not certain but i&#8217;m familiar with that song and thats what makes sense to me&#8230; Hope i helped! <img src='http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Joseph.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Joseph asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>I need help on the guitar?</h2>
<p>How do i go about playing this</p>
<p> <strong>0h2p0</strong>        2p0</p>
<p>i know what the H means but what does the P stand for and how do i do it</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Take guitar lessons</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Bob.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Bob asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>Guitar language assitance pleeeease?</h2>
<p>what does this mean in tabs? &#8211;<strong>0h2p0</strong>&#8211;</p>
<p>thanks for any answers <img src='http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Pick the open string, then hammer on to fret 2 the pull off back to the open string. It will make 3 notes but you only pick the string one time.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Ken.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Ken asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>how do you play this tab? (guitar)?</h2>
<p>its supermassive black hole by muse- the second bit and i dont know what the notes are :S</p>
<p>e|&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8211;|<br />
D|&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8211;|<br />
G|&#8212;&#8211;2br-<strong>0h2p0</strong>&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;|<br />
B|&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;2&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;-|<br />
A|&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8211;|<br />
E|&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8212;&#8211;|</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">2br</p>
<p>Do a bend on the second fret of the G string then return</p>
<p>Play the G string open then hammer on second frets of both D and G</p>
<p>Pull off the second fret so it&#8217;s open again</p>
<p>By the way, the naming of your strings is wrong.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Thomas.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Thomas asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>This guitar tab doesn&#8217;t make sense to me.?</h2>
<p>http://tabs.ultimate-guitar.com/m/misc_computer_games/legend_of_zelda_-_gerudo_valley_tab.htm<br />
heres the link to the tab</p>
<p>the specific part i dont get is right here<br />
|&#8212;0-<strong>0h2p0</strong>&#8212;|</p>
<p>how can i pull off from nothing? i dont get it. can somebody explain?</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">You don&#8217;t, you hammer on to 2<br />
and then you pull off to 0</p>
<p>so you never pick on the two, you just use your left hand</p>
</div>
</div>
<p>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</p>

<!-- start wp-tags-to-technorati 1.01 -->

<!-- end wp-tags-to-technorati -->
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-0h2p0/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Yahoo  Insulation Supply</title>
		<link>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-supply</link>
		<comments>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-supply#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 28 Sep 2011 20:21:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Price Insulation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-supply</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Jim asks… Does Simpson Strongtie or Lafarge supply a product to fit insulation boards in loft space? As a carpenter I feel that there is a need for a kind of noggin to fit insulation boards securely in loft space and stop them from rattling in the wind. Why Simpson Strongtie or Lafarge do not...</p><p><strong><a href="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-supply">Read the rest of this entry</a></strong></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Jim.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Jim asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>Does Simpson Strongtie or Lafarge supply a product to fit insulation boards in loft space?</h2>
<p>As a carpenter I feel that there is a need for a kind of noggin to fit <strong>insulation</strong> boards securely in loft space and stop them from rattling in the wind.  Why Simpson Strongtie or Lafarge do not sell these is beyond me&#8230;anyone know where I can find a product such as this?<br />
Thanks man!  This is useful.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Thats a very good question!   Our construction team have the same problem and have asked all the suppliers for a solution to this.    I came across this independent site that has hit the nail by inventing such a product but it doesn&#8217;t look like they are supplying them yet.</p>
<p>That is metalnoggin.com</p>
<p>Good luck!</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Jane.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Jane asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>Can anybody please supply me with a draft for an insulation (megger) test report?</h2>
<p>I tested a 3-phase line that we installed, and need to hand over a report to the customer. I don&#8217;t know how to fill out the report&#8230; If anybody can email me a draft or a completed report so I can make my own, I would greatly appreciate it.</p>
<p>Thanks in advance&#8230;</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">I agree with the other answer. </p>
<p>List what you did and when and what the reading were.</p>
<p>You did the testing, you write the report.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</p>

<!-- start wp-tags-to-technorati 1.01 -->

<!-- end wp-tags-to-technorati -->
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-supply/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Yahoo  Insulation Slab</title>
		<link>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-slab</link>
		<comments>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-slab#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 30 Aug 2011 18:18:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Price Insulation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-slab</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Jane asks… Why is moisture running out of duct work in attic? I bought house in 1996 that was built in 1954 without any a/c. Since half of house is on a slab we installed a/c duct work in attic in fall 1996. Installed 12 more inches insulation in attic in Jan. 2001. Put new...</p><p><strong><a href="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-slab">Read the rest of this entry</a></strong></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Jane.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Jane asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>Why is moisture running out of duct work in attic?</h2>
<p>I bought house in 1996 that was built in 1954 without any a/c.  Since half of house is on a <strong>slab</strong> we installed a/c duct work in attic in fall 1996.  Installed 12 more inches <strong>insulation</strong> in attic in Jan. 2001.  Put new windows in Jan. 2003 and new garage door in May 2003.  Old garage door was too heavy for wife to open so we left it open all the time till new door was installed.  Had no trouble till I had new windows put in.  About a week after installation, I noticed ceiling was changing color and started to inspect.  Noticed that the marks were about every 3-4 foot and directly under duct work in attic.  Went in attic and found water running out at every joint in duct work.  People who installed air came back and wrapped <strong>insulation</strong> around duct work in mar. 2003.  Seemed to help but it still leaks a little. Ran 2 dehumidifiers this winter keeping basement at 20% and upstairs at 30-35%. I have hot water heat so duct work is not used in winter.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Basically your ductwork is doing the same thing a cold glass of iced tea does sitting on a table outside in the summertime. Water is condensing on the outside of the duct, because the air moving through the duct is much colder than the air in the attic.<br />
This normally happens in the summertime, when the air conditioning is blowing cold air through the ductwork, and the air in the attic is hot.<br />
So basically, to get this to happen in the winter time, two things have to be wrong at the same time.<br />
1. The insulators have possibly covered up vents in your attic that keep outside air circulating through your attic space. Heat is radiating up through the ceiling into the attic, and is getting trapped up there.<br />
2. Cold air is moving through your ductwork. This can happen through convection, or through negative pressurization. Check to see if you can feel air being drawn through the return in the house while the fan is off. The easiest way is to hold a piece of paper next to the return and see if it sucks the paper up against the grill. Saran wrap is a cheap way to block off air circulating through your ductwork during the winter.<br />
3. Finally, check to see if the contractor installed a fresh-air intake on your forced air system in the attic, it may also be sucking in cold air. It should be equipped with a damper that you can simply shut during winter months.<br />
The key to all of this is to raise the dew point in the attic, and stabilize the temperature of the air inside the ductwork during winter months. (More insulation is not going to fix this)<br />
Its funny- you have made your house almost &#8220;too efficient&#8221;</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Kirstie.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Kirstie asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>Why don&#8217;t they build houses with basements as a rule in Las Vegas area?</h2>
<p>I would think using underground space here would help with <strong>insulation</strong> and be easier to climate control to keep it comfortable.  The problem is it seems 90% of construction seems to be on a <strong>slab</strong> without a basement.  Is there a reason for thi?</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">If I&#8217;m not mistaken, the ground in las vegas to very rocky and would be very expensive to dig a hole for a foundation.  However, you are correct that is would be highly efficient to have a basement and to help keep a house cool, but the upfront cost would be pretty large.  If you want one, I&#8217;m sure someone would dig you one, but be prepared for the bottom line.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Ken.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Ken asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>Bat Insulation in Attic/Crawl space?</h2>
<p>I recently purchased an older home and it has zero <strong>insulation</strong>. So as part of my renovation first I installed faced bat <strong>insulation</strong> in the attic. After i finished, a friend of mine who&#8217;s a roofer told me that I had installed the <strong>insulation</strong> upside down. well I had installed it with the paper barrier down towards the living space. But he said it&#8217;s supposed to be with the paper face upwards toward the roof. He claims all houses he&#8217;s ever roofed were done this way. So i went back and flipped all of it back over like he said. Then I was in the home improvement store purchasing some <strong>insulation</strong> for the crawl space to do the floor of the house, and the guy that works in there told me that I had installed it correctly the first time! I don&#8217;t want to have to flip all of this <strong>insulation</strong> back over again but if I have to, I certainly will.</p>
<p>So can someone tell me what is the true correct way to lay the <strong>insulation</strong> in the attic? Is it paper side down or up? Does it matter? And how does the way I lay it (up or down) impact if i want to go back later and lay unfaced <strong>insulation</strong> across the joists at right angles to make it even more insulated?</p>
<p>Also for the crawl space would the paper side face up towards the living space or face down to the ground? The crawl space is, of course, unheated. The house is enclosed underneath with blocks and has vents. But there&#8217;s no <strong>slab</strong>. It&#8217;s dirt underneath where the crawl space is.</p>
<p>Also too: I was wondering if i could use the 4&#215;8 insulated sheating in the crawl space area instead of laying the bats between the floor joists? It would make it much easier to work over my head since the area from ground to floor is only 2&#8242;, but I didn&#8217;t know if maybe that might not be safe for the wood to be enclosed. Just thought I&#8217;d ask before I invest further in more <strong>insulation</strong></p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">I agree with Tedruski, above. Your friend was wrong about the direction of the insulation.</p>
<p>One thing to add is that you might consider blown cellulose insulation in the attic space. This is an easy project that you can complete with a helper in one day. The product that I like is made of 80+% recycled paper cellulose (newspaper and/or cardboard) that has been treated with a natural insect repellent and fire retardant (usually borate).</p>
<p>The product is inexpensive, green, highly insulating, and manufactured locally in many areas of the country. Cellulose settles around building components well, creating a good insulating blanket with few energy robbing void spaces. The product also will not irritate or make you itch like fiberglass. It is just really dusty.</p>
<p>You will need to rent a blower unit to install the material, but most home centers will include the use of the installation blower for free with the purchase of a certain number of bags of insulation. </p>
<p>It is important to maintain clearance on eave vents (if your home has them) with cardboard or foam baffles. Also, you will need to maintain clearance from the exhaust stack of any heat generating appliance that passes through the attic such as a gas water heater, wood stove pipe, or furnace vent. Cellulose will not freely burn, but it is not safe to pack it against a vent that requires combustible clearances by code.</p>
<p>Of course, your local building codes always are the last word&#8211;check them.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Chris.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Chris asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>Can I run the water line for a refrigerator up the attic?</h2>
<p>We are going to get a new fridge with ice/water and there is no current hook up, we live on a <strong>slab</strong> and the water lines are on the opposite wall. Would like to know if I can run the line up into the attic and then back down to where the fridge will be. If this is ok to do, I live in Ohio, would i need to put any kind of extra <strong>insulation</strong> over line to keep from freezing? or just cover with existing <strong>insulation</strong>?</p>
<p>Thank you!</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Rusty is definitely correct &#8211; been there, had a flood when the line froze.  If you have to run it in the attic use heat tape on it to make sure it won&#8217;t freeze.  Hopefully there is a way to run it around the back of cabinets or through the wall.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Daniel.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Daniel asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>What kind of insulation do I use in a first floor ceiling?</h2>
<p>I need to put <strong>insulation</strong> in the ceiling between the first and second floor (Chicago area).  Both spaces are heated and air conditioned.  The first floor room is built on a <strong>slab</strong> and has 2 walls of windows.  The first floor room is heated but is cold, The second floor room is heated and comfortable.  Everything I&#8217;ve read says the facing goes toward the heated side.  Well, in my case both sides are heated, but one side not as well as the other.  So do I get unfaced <strong>insulation</strong> or faced?  If I get faced, what side do I put the facing on?</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">The faced towards the heated space refers to exterior wall insulation.</p>
<p>You can use faced &amp; staple it to the joists, or use non-faced batts &amp; use keeper wires to hold up the batts.</p>
<p>The windows are your heat loss factor&#8230;you might want to budget for replacing with triple pane units down the road.  That much glass looses a lot of heat.</p>
<p>As an intrim stop-gap, you could install full-length heavy drapes &amp; close them at night or at times you are not using the room.</p>
<p>Good luck&#8230;</p>
</div>
</div>
<p>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</p>

<!-- start wp-tags-to-technorati 1.01 -->

<!-- end wp-tags-to-technorati -->
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-slab/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Yahoo  Insulation Rolls Sale</title>
		<link>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-rolls-sale</link>
		<comments>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-rolls-sale#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Jul 2011 21:18:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Price Insulation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-rolls-sale</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Helena asks… where is the best place to buy rolled fiberglass insulation in the midwest? we need some in the attic!? what is the best brand? does it really matter?&#8230;..whatever is on sale good enough? admin answers: Any home center, 1 brand is as good as another. If it is the first layer of insulation,...</p><p><strong><a href="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-rolls-sale">Read the rest of this entry</a></strong></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Helena.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Helena asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>where is the best place to buy rolled fiberglass insulation in the midwest? we need some in the attic!?</h2>
<p>what is the best brand?  does it really matter?&#8230;..whatever is on <strong>sale</strong> good enough?</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Any home center, 1 brand is as good as another.  If it is the first layer of insulation, be sure to have a vapor barrier against the warm side.  However, if you are adding to existing insulation, get the unfaced (no vapor barrier) stuff.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Mandy.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Mandy asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>Can I use regular household aluminum foil for Radiant Barrier?</h2>
<p>I was wondering if I spread some heavy duty aluminum foil over my existing <strong>insulation</strong> if it would have the same effects as the product out on the market. Not to mention would it be safe to use. </p>
<p>I thought of rolling it out over the area or I could adhere the aluminum foil to cut out pieces of card board and lay it over the installation.</p>
<p>I have checked some local places that are running there so call sales, but I am very discouraged when i am told in order to save this amount of money I have to buy the <strong>insulation</strong>, I have way more than the required amount that is needed, and don&#8217;t feel like I should be told to buy something I don&#8217;t need. </p>
<p>I have a neighbor who has solar screens and his electric bill is more than half of mine, that is another option I can look at. I like the idea of having a $100. electric bill rather than mine at $380.</p>
<p>Anyone have any input on this. I have about an 1800 sq.ft home, One window facing the South, most the living areas and the other main windows are all facing East. </p>
<p>Any help on this is appreciated.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">I don&#8217;t believe it would work since the aluminum foil would just get hot and radiate the heat it absorbed out of both sides,  radiant barrier only releases all the heat it absorbs out on 1 side</p>
</div>
</div>
<p>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</p>

<!-- start wp-tags-to-technorati 1.01 -->

<!-- end wp-tags-to-technorati -->
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-rolls-sale/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Yahoo  Price Insulation Attic</title>
		<link>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-price-insulation-attic-3</link>
		<comments>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-price-insulation-attic-3#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 07 Jul 2011 23:18:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Price Insulation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-price-insulation-attic-3</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Jim asks… HVAC company owner here about to get screwed? One of my custom builders has built this one house over and over again at least 25 times over the past four years, and on one particular house there has been mold spotted near some of my registers. I have met with the home owner,...</p><p><strong><a href="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-price-insulation-attic-3">Read the rest of this entry</a></strong></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Jim.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Jim asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>HVAC company owner here about to get screwed?</h2>
<p>One of my custom builders has built this one house over and over again at least 25 times over the past four years, and on one particular house there has been mold spotted near some of my registers.  I have met with the home owner, builder and mold &#8220;specialist&#8221;  and we have all come to a conclusion that the blown in <strong>insulation</strong> had not filled all the cavities around the buckets in the <strong>attic</strong>.  All great and grand for me all we had to do was take all the old duct, buckets, plenums, coil and heater out and replace it all.  They get all the prices together and send them to the insulator and he refuses to pay the back charge because he didn&#8217;t see problem before it was fixed.  Now my builder has turned on me and I am afraid I am about to get back-charged for crap that I didn&#8217;t do.  Does this suck or what? I guess that’s why I have to carry liability insurance even though it’s not my fault. Has this kind of junk happened to anybody else out there?</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Too late now, but I have learned over the years to document, document document! I take digital pictures of EVERY project I get involved in, before and after, and write  down notes whenever anyone makes a commitment. This may slow things down a bit, but it has been my salvation many times. People just have a tendency to remember things in the way that most advantageous to them &#8211; it is just human nature, and is not an indication that anyone is trying to cheat you. You have my sympathy, and the best you can do is make sure you learn from the experience, so that this expense won&#8217;t be repeated!</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Lisa.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Lisa asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>Is Amana a quality central A/C?</h2>
<p>I was quoted a <strong>price</strong> for an Amana13 seer/3.5 ton.  The same A/C company offered Lennox at the same <strong>price</strong> and size:  $7500.00, which includes some additional <strong>insulation</strong> for the <strong>attic</strong>.  Too much?</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">They are both good units. But as  long as you are spending that much money you need to go for a higher SEER rating so you can take the tax credit.</p>
<p>You need SEER rating of 16 and above for split systems or 14 and above for package systems.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Joseph.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Joseph asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>How much should my first offer be? $165,000 asking FSBO?</h2>
<p>We are looking at a 3+1 OLD home on a large lot with a detached 2 car garage. (garage not in good condition)</p>
<p>It is for sale by the owner.  They are asking $165,000 and it seems fairly in line with some other 3+1 in the town.</p>
<p>A little catch though, they are in the process of doing renovations on the home.  They have done the kitchen, windows, blowing <strong>insulation</strong> in <strong>attic</strong> and basement, siding, adding an upstairs 3 piece bathroom, and others.  They have done a very good job so far, but don&#8217;t expect it to be fully done until April and our closing date has to be by May 5th.  Understandably we want to make sure they are done and we get the home for a good <strong>price</strong>. </p>
<p>Any suggestions would help.  Any ideas on first offers, and what to include in the offers would help a lot. </p>
<p>Thanks,<br />
The Home is in South Western Ontario</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Make sure your offer is contingent on final inspections from the building inspectors, as well as an appraisal, even if you are paying cash.</p>
<p>Not knowing your market it is hard to really answer this FSBO tend to be in fantasy land though, and tend to ask for a lot more then the property is worth.</p>
<p>Start with 130 and see what they say.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</p>

<!-- start wp-tags-to-technorati 1.01 -->

<!-- end wp-tags-to-technorati -->
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-price-insulation-attic-3/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Yahoo  Insulation Rolls Price</title>
		<link>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-rolls-price</link>
		<comments>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-rolls-price#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Jun 2011 18:16:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Price Insulation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-rolls-price</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Paul asks… i need to put insulation around a 3 inch PVC sewer pipe.. i got heat tape on it but i need to know ..? if that regular fiberglass with the silver foil backing is safe.. i got some on a roll it was high in price..its 1 inch fiberglass with foil on the...</p><p><strong><a href="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-rolls-price">Read the rest of this entry</a></strong></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Paul.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Paul asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>i need to put insulation around a 3 inch PVC sewer pipe.. i got heat tape on it but i need to know ..?</h2>
<p>if that regular fiberglass with the silver foil backing is safe.. i got some on a roll it was high in <strong>price</strong>..its 1 inch fiberglass with foil on the back of it.. and the heat tape is under it.. is it safe?<br />
i forgot but the pipe is under the floor in a crawl space so its out side i guess but in a dry place and where i live it gets real cold.. the heat tape has a thermastate on it also.. i wanted to know if it could make a fire.. thank u<br />
i live in Canada and it gets around -40 somtimes.. last winter it froze up ..but i think because it was new pvc and it had stress on the &#8220;Y&#8221; where it comes out of the ground.. it broke off and it froze up from the end..  so then i put heat tape on it. then this year i wraped it in the foil fiberglASS its not pluged in i figure i would plug it in if it froze up again</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Fiberglass insulation can be used with heat tape&#8230;even the foil backed&#8230; But a non-backed insulation is normally used, simply because it is less expensive.</p>
<p>Typically, pipe wrap insulation is wound around the pipe, secured every so often with a strip of electrical tape to hold it in place, and then covered with a plastic wrap, which is also taped in place.  Normally, this is done on supply lines, which are only 1/2&#8243; to 3/4&#8243; diameter&#8230;. With a 3&#8243; drain line&#8230; You might seriously consider just using wall insulation.  You can slip it over the pipe, lengthwise, rather than wrapping around and around the pipe.  Then simply fold it over til it overlaps itself, and secure it with electrical or duct tape.  This would not only be faster, and cheaper, but would provide more insulating value than the typical pipe wrap.  I would follow up with a layer of 6mil plastic to act as a moisture barrier, again sealed with duct tape.</p>
<p>Drain lines are not normally heat taped and insulated, so if you are doing yours because it has frozen in the past, I&#8217;d seriously consider going with the wall batten insulation.</p>
<p>Good Luck</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Elizabeth.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Elizabeth asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>Weatherproofing &#8211; Is More Better?</h2>
<p>I have a small screened in porch off my kitchen.  The door leading outside is not solid wood (typical 50&#8242;s veneered).  It needs to be replaced, but when you&#8217;ve been laid-off, you do what you can.  The kitchen has always been colder in the winter, but I figured it was because the heating thermostat is on the opposite side of the house. Might help to also know that I have a full unfinished basement/garage under my floors.   The whole basement has the thick roll type <strong>insulation</strong> in place between all the floor joists (if <strong>insulation</strong> can be  stuffed some place, it&#8217;s stuffed) then the sub-floor, then two layers of vinyl flooring). It stays pretty warm down there, though it is not heated space.  The other morning it was 31 degrees outside, and 58 degrees in the basement. </p>
<p>Back to the door.  One day this pass summer I just happened to be in the kitchen at the right time and sunlight was coming in under the door.  Well no wonder it&#8217;s so cold in the kitchen.  I&#8217;ve put off fixing this problem, and now it&#8217;s almost winter again.   While putting weather striping around the whole door should help, would it make that much difference if I put up a storm door?  Keep in mind the budget is limited, so I&#8217;d have to stay in the $100-$125 range door.  Doors in this <strong>price</strong> range are cheaply made and it could be a waste of money.  Does it make any difference if a storm door frame is constructed of wood oraluminum?  Any suggestions welcomed to make the kitchen warmer.  Thanks</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">You need to add a door sweep first to block the opening under your door. Your local hardware will have them.<br />
Its a metal piece with a rubber seal that would lay against the threshold and block any cold air from coming in.</p>
<p>The storm door &#8230;yes&#8230;anything to add a layer of protection from the cold, even the cheap ones make a difference.<br />
They have them for $69 at Menards.</p>
</div>
</div>
<p>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</p>

<!-- start wp-tags-to-technorati 1.01 -->

<!-- end wp-tags-to-technorati -->
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-rolls-price/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Yahoo  Price Insulation House</title>
		<link>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-price-insulation-house-5</link>
		<comments>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-price-insulation-house-5#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 29 Jun 2011 14:17:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Price Insulation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-price-insulation-house-5</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Marie asks… How do we get our earnest money back on a house that fails the inspection? On February 14th, we put down our earnest money on a house ($500). February 15th, we had the house inspected. The house is absolutely beautiful on the inside, but the inspection report came back that the house failed...</p><p><strong><a href="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-price-insulation-house-5">Read the rest of this entry</a></strong></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Marie.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Marie asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>How do we get our earnest money back on a house that fails the inspection?</h2>
<p>On February 14th, we put down our earnest money on a <strong>house</strong> ($500). February 15th, we had the <strong>house</strong> inspected. The <strong>house</strong> is absolutely beautiful on the inside, but the inspection report came back that the <strong>house</strong> failed pretty much every major category. It has foundation problems (minimum 13 cracks), needs a new A/C (the old one is from 1992), needs <strong>insulation</strong> (it has none), needs proper ventilation (in some areas, the vents are covered in paint and all of the vents in the attic are not sealed), needs to have grounded wiring with GFCI outlets and to remove the aluminum wiring, and a few other problems. </p>
<p>We assumed the seller would not want to fix all of these problems, but (after three weeks and our ultimatum), he has come back with the estimate for the foundation repair. The foundation will cost $8,000 to fix&#8211;but that&#8217;s going the cheaper route and we most definitely want the more expensive, better quality foundation repair. The seller has offered to fix the foundation and will either repair the other problems, which he has yet to give us the estimates on, or deduct that money off of the selling <strong>price</strong>. </p>
<p>After some debate, we have come to the conclusion that the seller will not fix the repairs in the way that we want that meets our minimum requirements, and rather than dealing with a <strong>house</strong> that has a history of foundation problems in the future when we try to resell, we want to let go of the <strong>house</strong> and find another deal. </p>
<p>Our contract says that the deal is contingent on the seller fixing problems that are TBD in the inspection report, yet we feel that these problems will not be fixed to our satisfaction. We are preapproved for an FHA loan, but we don&#8217;t know if they will still offer funding on a <strong>house</strong> that <strong>house</strong> foundation problems. How do we get out of our contract without losing our earnest money?</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">It all depends on what the contract states &#8211; and you have said that the seller has the right to fix the problems &#8211; which he has agreed to fix.  And if he fixes the problems, then FHA shouldn&#8217;t have a problem.</p>
<p>Here is my suggestion.  If you really feel that the house is so bad and you are sure you don&#8217;t want it, then I would be willing to walk away from the 500.  Lossing 500 now could be the cheap way out.</p>
<p>Next time, your contract should state that you have the right to walk if you don&#8217;t like the inspection.</p>
<p>If would talk with a lawyer.  But htis could cost you a couple hundred.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Joseph.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Joseph asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>how much to rebuild a house completely in Toronto? ?</h2>
<p>I have bungalow in Toronto, it has some major problems like:<br />
1) It needs <strong>insulation</strong><br />
2) Both bathrooms need renovating<br />
3) We need like to extra bedrooms</p>
<p>These are some of the problems, so I need to know how much would it cost to completely destroy my <strong>house</strong> and build a 3  <strong>house</strong> story with 4 bedrooms, 3 washrooms, a basement with 1 one bedroom and a living room. So let me know how much would it cost for the rebuilding, or should I renovate it instead.<br />
I really need a <strong>price</strong> for the rebuilding.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">I&#8217;m reminded of what &#8220;Commodore&#8221; Vanderbilt said about yachts:</p>
<p>&#8220;If you have to ask how much it costs, you probably can&#8217;t afford it!&#8221;</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Cindy.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Cindy asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>Can I do anything about removing PMI from loan? Bank wont accept new appraisal price.?</h2>
<p>Never late w/pymnt loan 2.5yrs old. new appraisal makes Ltv is where it needs to be. Bank wont take increase in value due to improvments (add hardwood floors,finished full basement &amp; replaced paneling w/ drywall &amp; <strong>insulation</strong>,new 6 panel doors,oak crown molding&amp; trim) 2 houses next door sold for 289k&amp;186k both needed updating &amp; 2nd had 1/2 the sqft of mine.I owe 142k.Bank only take improvements if its an inground pool,sprinkler,added room or garage. Improvements only must raise value 17k.Is this standard practice for PMI removal?Have good interest rate,hate to have to refinance. I have Excellent credit score never late on anything.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Get a new appraisal.  Than divide the new appraisal to your current loan amount.  If under 80% than refinance.  Now you can take your equity in the home and buy down your rate.  So lets say you had a rate of 5.5 when you purchased the house.  Well guess what you can do the same but it will cost you.  If you stick urself into a 30 year like I am sure you are going to do.  Than spending the xtra cash on buying down the rate wont hurt you and you get away from PMI.  Stay away from Helocs since they act like a credit card.  Good luck!</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Jim.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Jim asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>Alternative heat. Is it better to insulate the walls of a house or add an add on alternative heat furnace?</h2>
<p>I can only afford one of the two. I have a 900 Sq ft.block, stucco home with vinyl siding in Southern Pennsylvania. The interior walls(between the studs at sheetrock) has no <strong>insulation</strong>. My attic has <strong>insulation</strong> at the attic floor joists. My basement has no <strong>insulation</strong>. I want to help my parents make the <strong>house</strong> warmer. I was just going to have foam <strong>insulation</strong> blown into the interior walls. But with energy prices on the rise, I also am considering adding an add on wood/ coal furnace to the existing 1990 natural gas furnace.<br />
Does it make sense to run the add on furnace like crazy and not worry about wall <strong>insulation</strong>? I can only afford one of these projects. I would love to have your cost and economicial opinions on how you would handle this. Not so much interested in environmental preaching. I will take those things into consideration.<br />
Thanks</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Insulate!!!  You are throwing money away by not sealing cracks around windows and doors and installing wall insulation.  Although block houses have some inherent insulative properties, you will see a big difference&#8211;especially if you add some to your basement.  To make your rooms more comfortable, what I do here at my house in winter is to use portable electric heaters (they look like radiators, have a sealed oil system and cost about $50) in main rooms like the family room and only run them while we are actually using the room.  For bedrooms, we run them for about 1.5 hours before bed time and then turn them off.  If you keep the doors closed, the air heats up and it is very comfortable and it only adds $20 a month to our electric bill.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Elizabeth.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Elizabeth asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>As a followup to my question about a very humid basement&#8230; There does not seem to be any water coming in.?</h2>
<p>Nothing along the floor or coming down the walls etc. It seems to be condensation as the last person to answer my question indicated. We do not have a vapour barrier over the soil in the crawl space- I did not even know you could put one in, How would you do it?? The <strong>insulation</strong> in the walls was not a styrene type-it was the kind of styrofoam you might buy to make a fake gravestone for your front yard at Halloween or use for packing in a parcel. We considered foam but are not sure how it compares <strong>price</strong>-wise to regular bat <strong>insulation</strong>. We have two sump pumps and no doubt that is adding to the moisture as well since the wells are covered only by a wooden cap. Should those be sealed over with plastic as well? My last <strong>house</strong> was in the city and we had No humidity problems so this is a whole new experience. There is a bit of mold in one spot going up on the drywall- that will be yanked out tomorrow. Any further suggestions appreciated-especially how to put that vapour barrier on the dirt. Tx.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">The vapor barrier is a good idea, if you have ground water. If the area under the crawl space is dry and powdery, the I wouldn&#8217;t waste the money. (You just lay plastic sheeting on the ground, overlapping the seams by 3 feet.). Mold has to have water to live. The moisture is coming from the sump pumps as well. I would buy a cheap dehumidifier that empties into one of the sumps.. Covering the openings with plastic would help cut down on the moisture. If you are remodeling the basement, I would buy a moisture meter ($100).</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Susan.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Susan asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>No $ to put dark blinds on my windows. Only drapes, sun light makes it so hot. Need to fix, any suggestions?</h2>
<p>The front window is a picture window, but there is a patio cover, which helps keep the sun out and keep the front of the <strong>house</strong> cooler, but the rear of the <strong>house</strong> has a dining room with continuous windows on two walls. So there is also not much <strong>insulation</strong> there, very hot in that room and it draws all the cool air from the rest of the <strong>house</strong>. Seems my ac runs constantly, I can close off the room, but then I can&#8217;t use it. I&#8217;ve even considered spray painting them!!! It would look trashy and terrible, but I am desperate at this point. How can I cover these windows without spending too much money. I&#8217;ve priced blinds and it would cost me $100&#8242;s of dollars to cover them. I have dark drapes up but its not much help. The A/C unit is sufficient for the home, but the room is like a leach to the air in the rest of the <strong>house</strong>.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Buy Contact paper  and put it on the glass; you can get it in designs or frosted, lace all kinds;<br />
Or you can also buy spray paint  in frosted, green, and I think blue.  Try a few hardware stores.If you decide to remove the paint later, it comes off with paint thinner You can also make homemade frossting with beer and epsom salts, paint it on with a paint brush and it looks like Jack Frost came around to visit.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Graham.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Graham asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>how much do you think this would cost?</h2>
<p>lets pretend that i bought a 1200 sq. ft. <strong>house</strong> from the 1950s.<br />
I gut everything out, walls, ceiling, <strong>insulation</strong>, bathroom, kitchen, ect&#8230;. </p>
<p>how much would it cost to put up new walls/ceiling, completely redo the bathroom and kitchen, install new windows, new shingles on the roof, update the plumbing, heating/cooling system, ect&#8230;</p>
<p>im just looking for a high and low <strong>price</strong>.. doesnt need to be precise</p>
<p>cost should include parts and labor to please&#8230;  thanks</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Funny you should ask, Kevin, we&#8217;re doing that right now to a house.  It&#8217;s not cheap, especially if you&#8217;re NOT  doing the labor.  Demolition as you gut out the house can be quite costly depending on what your local dump charges per pound of trash.  PLUS who knows what problems you will encounter as you tear things apart: asbestos, woodrot, rodents, etc.<br />
But lets start with a totally gutted out house and assume you still have all the framing and wiring with siding still intack.<br />
Very rough estimate:<br />
New windows(vinyl framed)9500<br />
plumbing.$5000<br />
heating/ cooling system.$15,000<br />
insulation&amp;labor.4000<br />
drywall &amp; paint labor incl.8000<br />
roofing&amp;labor.7000<br />
new cabinets.15,000<br />
Granite countertops(35 sq ft).5000<br />
_______________________________________<br />
sub total:.$68,000</p>
<p>Not included is trimming out the windows exterior, flooring, bathroom trimout (faucets, sinks, etc.)  There are huge differences in prices depending on what your choose.  Choosing the cheapest of everything could be from a total of $60,000 to $150,000(choosing higher end material).</p>
<p>If this is overwhelming or if you are in need of living space, try doing part of the house at a time.  It can be a fun and interesting project or a nightmare depending on how you tackle challenges.  If you do it in phases try this:<br />
1rst:  Roofing and windows<br />
2nd: kitchen<br />
3rd: bedroom and bath<br />
4th:  rest of the house</p>
</div>
</div>
<p>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</p>

<!-- start wp-tags-to-technorati 1.01 -->

<!-- end wp-tags-to-technorati -->
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-price-insulation-house-5/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Yahoo  Insulation Rolls Size</title>
		<link>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-rolls-size</link>
		<comments>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-rolls-size#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 26 Jun 2011 03:16:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Price Insulation]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-rolls-size</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Steve asks… Simple question about insulation that goes around water pipes? Hello, i am referring to that cheat roll of insulation that slips on small water pipes outside. They usually come in 1/2 &#8211; 3/4 in diameter size and you can find them at Walmart and home improvement stores. I know that they are used...</p><p><strong><a href="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-rolls-size">Read the rest of this entry</a></strong></p>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Steve.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Steve asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>Simple question about insulation that goes around water pipes?</h2>
<p>Hello, i am referring to that cheat roll of <strong>insulation</strong> that slips on small water pipes outside.  They usually come in 1/2 &#8211; 3/4 in diameter <strong>size</strong> and you can find them at Walmart and home improvement stores.  I know that they are used to prevent condensation, but do they also keep the water pipe warmer?  If so, I noticed that water pipes underneath the kitchen and bathroom sinks are uninsulated.  If I added <strong>insulation</strong> to the pipes under the sinks would that keep the pipes warmer?  Thanks.<br />
wow sorry about the typos, cheat = cheap.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">It won&#8217;t keep the pipes warmer, but it may keep them from freezing. The insulation will hold in the warmth the pipe already has from the water inside it and keep out the cooler temperatures. That keeps the pipe from freezing.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Davina.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Davina asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>What can I do to protcet myself from shoody roofer now wanting to go into attic?</h2>
<p>We got a &#8220;new roof&#8221;&#8230; well, that was what we paid for, but the roofer did a lousy job. Tried to get him to fix it, but no such luck; just excuses and avoidance. Now he thinks it will be cheaper for him to &#8220;fix&#8221; it from in the attic.That means coming INTO the house with his group of &#8220;followers&#8221;. The attic is super low(head clearance) and is full of 50 year old pink blown-in <strong>insulation</strong>. Can I make him provide proof of insurance? proof of citizenship for his workers? Can I make him sign some form holding me &#8220;harmless or blameless&#8221; if he gets hurt up there while trying to gerry-rig the roof problems caused by his workers in the first place? Here&#8217;s the problem. We paid for the replacement of any deteriorated wood before the felt, tar and shingles were installed. Easy enough &#8216;eh? NO. Feeling excessive &#8220;sponginess&#8221; in the roof, I went into the attic. Beyond stress fractures all over the place from his foreman beating on the planks, there are areas that simply have no wood at all! You can see felt, big <strong>size</strong> 13EE foot sized areas with NO WOOD! The last 2 months have been me tracking him down and him saying that&#8217;s normal/!?! or that it happens because my house is old, and MANY other ludicrous excuses. Finally I filed w/ the ROC. That REALLY made the roofer mad and on the day of the ROC inspection, the roofer showed up with 4, yes FOUR people to back him up. So every time the inspector would say something wasn&#8217;t right, one of his &#8220;dudes&#8221; would pie in with some excuse. So, there&#8217;s me, a mere housewife, the inspector, and 4 dudes who kept yapping, rolling their eyes at me, and making light of anything I saw as an issue. &#8220;Oh that&#8217;s from walking up here when it&#8217;s hot&#8221;.. Actually nobody has been on the roof to walk (hot or not)&#8230; eyes roll. on and on. Finally, the inspector said he would close the complaint if the roofer and I could have a meeting of the minds as to how to fix the problems. I said NO, because the roofer has told me 5 times he&#8217;d fix it and has done nothing at all but ignore me. Finally the inspector said he&#8217;d give the roofer 2 weeks to fix it, and thet he&#8217;d let us come to an &#8220;understanding&#8221;, but then to call him if it wasn&#8217;t worked out in 2 weeks. The inspector left and I endured another half hour of how it&#8217;s normal for an old house to have broken boards. (that weren&#8217;t broken before the new roof). Finally, the roofer said he would fix the broken planks from the inside of the attic to make it where he didn&#8217;t have to remove the shingles. I was unable to explain to his tiny mind, that replacing wood that is not connected to anything is&#8230; impossible. So, now he wants to crawl around in the attic with the 50 year old pink blown-in <strong>insulation</strong> and attempt to replace the boards in the tiny crawl space (with no light or ventilation)&#8230; to save him money. Everytime I&#8217;ve been up there, I&#8217;ve choked on <strong>insulation</strong> and there&#8217;s not even a catwalk up there. If he or one of his pathetic helpers gets hurt, I don&#8217;t want him fileing against MY homeowners insurance!!!! What can I do? While it&#8217;s easy to say he&#8217;s lisenced &amp; has a bond, he has sniveled and moaned that me wanting my roof fixed is going to make him lose his business, and how mean I am for that. So PLEASE, guide me! Can I require proof of citizenship on his helpers? Can i have them sign a &#8220;hold blameless&#8221; or some sort of form? If so, what is it really called and where do I get it?   I looking for a hero. i hope someone knows the answer. Thank you for reading my dilema and offering suggestions.<br />
ok, more details. the roof is not sheathed (like in 15/32 osb.) Nope. It&#8217;s slats, it sounded like &#8220;ship slat&#8221;, but I&#8217;m sure that&#8217;s not what it&#8217;s called. anyway, it&#8217;s slats, which is then covered with felt, and then the 30 year GAF/elk shingles. No, he has not been paidoff on the contract. because he hasn&#8217;t fulfilled the contract. He: 1) didn&#8217;t run a strip of sheet roofing along the transition to the flat roof,2)he didn&#8217;t elastomeric coat the flat roof, 3) he didn&#8217;t give us ANY written warranty on those lovely 30 year shingles, oh do I need to go on. So the day the roof was going on, we were also getting a new ac unit installed, and if the day wasn&#8217;t bad enough, we had a leak inside the kitchen wall which meant doing demolition under the sink and getting the water pipes re-routed from another part of the house. I had my hands full! So, the roofing foreman (no longer with the company) was 6&#8217;8&#8243; and 340lbs. got on the roof with a rigging axe and walked along smacking each slat to determine<br />
which ones needed to be replaced. He whacked and whacked and whacked. Then left the jobsite to be tended to by his 4 man crew of non-english speakers. It was sooo hot out, 110. So igave them shade, and gatorade, and horchata, and icewater, and even gave them a menu from qdoba and went and bought them full lunches of their choosing.  I went on the roof and used my best high school spanish/charades, to tell them, the satelitte dish stays, it is not basura; the tv antennae goes, it IS basura, the clay adobe trim tile are for ME, they are NOT basura, When they were done, I looked outside and the 100 decorative tiles&#8230; gone. I fussed and got them back in a week. Then I went to check out my new lovely roof. There were shingles that were separating (really separating! you could see every layer involved. It&#8217;s freaky). Then it got more complicated. The roofer said it&#8217;s a materials issue, the gaf/elk guy said it workmanship. Then they talk amongst themselves and decided it was my imagination.<br />
So while I was checking out the status of the deterioration of the 30 yr, (3 month) shingles, I noticed the roof was warped, spongey, made nail squeeking noise and looked like garbage from the street. Still just excuses from the roofer. I filed with the ROC. Then I went in the attic to see if I could tell anything from the inside. YEP! that&#8217;s where I see wood slat busted up BADLY from gigantor and his rigging axe, some wood not ever replaced, some wood just hanging there and a blob of tar to &#8220;make it ok?&#8221; The stove vent was removed, gone, nowhere, and again, just aopen hole and felt paper. When the ROC asked the roofer about it, he said.. Brace yourself: &#8220;didn&#8217;t you have a cabinet guy or something at your house that day? He probably did that.&#8221;  The inspector sort of took on a tone of like: all these dudes were there agreeing with the roofer, and me the lady. It seemed like his ego got involved and he didn&#8217;t want to agree too much with the girl. Anyone want pictures?I&#8217;ll send &#8216;em. THX<br />
Dear Thor, They actually WERE responsible for  having the ac scheduled at the same time. We needed a new ac, AND we need a roof. The roofer ezplained that the new ac would have a new &#8220;footprint&#8221; therby ruining the new roof if it was installed after the new roof. He insisted the two jobs be done simulteneously.<br />
as far as a contract, we had it all.. before the job began. we checked his record, did everything right, even interviewed the guy. we have a contract,  it&#8217;s just now he want to bale out and not complete the contract. I understand that whose jump on the bandwagon to say I&#8217;m being unreasonable, BUT  do know this, I have had another roofer over to inspect the roof and after a 4 hour inspection, they said the outfit should be shut down at once, and the the shingles should be pulled up and the roof boards repairded correctly, there is no 1&#215;2 between the drip edge and facia, the stove vent stack has been removed, not replaces, and simoly felted over, and the list goes one. the overhang out side is not connected to the house, you can take a broom handle and move the roof OFF the roof by 3 inches, HMMM.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">Look i&#8217;m a roofing contractor and what your &#8220;roofer&#8221; did was a definite cardinal sin in roofing, not to mention a crime. Any good contractor would have checked in the attic before contract to check for the gaps in the boards which is extremely common in 50 yr old homes. I really sympathies with you. The only way out is to take it off, fill in the gaps with like material (most likely 3/4&#8243; pine) or sheet over with plywood or osb and re roofed. Really there&#8217;s no other way. I&#8217;m GAF master elite certified and i know for sure they will not warranty their materials in this case. The best advise i can give you is to hire a roofing consultant. They can inspect and report on your roof as well as appear in court as an expert witness. Either way this is not going to be easy. Regardless though something definitely has to be done and soon. Email me if you need help getting in touch with the right people southfloridaslate@yahoo.com  good luck!</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ppp-faq">
<div class="question">
<div class="asker">
<p class="headshot"><img src="http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/wp-content/plugins/passiveprofitportal/avtars/Shelley.png" width="80" height="80" /></p>
<p class="name">Shelley asks…</p>
</div>
<div class="ppp-content">
<h2>Where can I get firm thin pvc tubing or strong plastic straws?</h2>
<p>Look at the work of Theo Jansen.  He builds giant mechanical creatures using the PVC tubing found in dutch households (as electrical <strong>insulation</strong>).  This is a bit like plastic canes of bamboo, the advantage of plastic being that you can heat up the ends of the canes and bend them.<br />
I have looked in DIY shops for this firm tubing, but only found the more flexible rubbery stuff that can be kept in a roll like rope.<br />
Drinking straws would be good enough (also they would be the right <strong>size</strong> for what I want to do) except they are too weak.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div class="answer">
<h3>admin answers:</h3>
<p class="ppp-content">In the garden dept. There are posts for holding up sprinkler heads in the drip irrigation section. I think they will work. Look at the jet spray tube http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Jet-Sprayers-s/7837.htm</p>
</div>
</div>
<p>Powered by Yahoo! Answers</p>

<!-- start wp-tags-to-technorati 1.01 -->

<!-- end wp-tags-to-technorati -->
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.priceinsulation.co.uk/yahoo-insulation-rolls-size/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>

